Arizona

Written May 2002

Everybody knows what a saguaro is, even if they don't know the name. They've become the symbol of the great Sonoran desert of Arizona. I remember the first time I saw the saguaro. It was that strange hour of the morning, when the darkness is starting to fade, but the sun isn't up over the horizon yet; the time of day I always imagine when I think of Steinbeck's "hour of the pearl." I was on Interstate 10 between California and Phoenix when I noticed tall black shadowy shapes all around the desert. At first, I couldn't imagine what they could be, but as the day grew lighter, I could finally tell.

It was awe-inspiring, seeing these cacti for the first time. I had begun to think that they had been invented by cartoonists or movie directors. I couldn't believe how tall they were, how majestic they seemed, outlined in black against the pale morning sky. I wanted to pull over and just stand and look at them, but fear of snakes or bats or other desert creatures hiding in the semi-darkness scared me off.

But the saguaro are just one of the features of Arizona. It goes without saying that you'll want to see the Grand Canyon. One of the best camping trips I ever took was hiking down into the canyon to spend the night. I have to warn you, though, that the hike back out of the canyon the next day was torturous. You might want to consider renting a burro.

If hiking and camping don't appeal to you, you can still have a close encounter with a burro in the town of Oatman, just off historic Route 66. The people of Oatman once used a large number of burros for gold mining. When the mining industry went bust in 1931, the burros were set free, but they liked Oatman so much, they never left. The burros freely wander the streets and are tame enough to eat from your hand.

In Moenkopi, you can see 160 million-year old dinosaur tracks in a riverbed. Be forewarned however, that there are some locals who like to milk these tracks for all they're worth. In exchange for "tips or donations," they have outlined some of the footprints in chalk, have placed toy dinosaurs in some of the footprints, and will walk with you while you look at the tracks. It can really be quite creepy if you're alone, so take someone with you.

Yuma, AZ boasts one of the smallest churches in the U.S. It was built by a local farmer in honor of his late wife and measures 12 feet by 7 feet. A sign invites visitors to "Stop, Rest, Worship" and the church is open to visitors during daylight hours. In contrast to the tiny church, you can head over to Carefree, AZ to visit the World's Largest Sundial. The folks in Carefree have been using the 62-foot-high sundial to tell time since 1959.

And if you're an Eagles fan, you won't want to miss "Standin' on a Corner Park" in Winslow, Arizona. The park features a statue of a man carrying a guitar, and on the wall behind him, a mural of "it's a girl, my lord, in a flat bed Ford, slowin' down to take a look at" him. So, get your picture taken, buy a T-shirt or a hat from the gift shop, and become a part of the park by buying a commemorative brick for $50. Then, "Take It Easy" and stay the night in the Wigwam Village Motel in Holbrook, AZ, where you get your own tepee, complete with cable TV, air conditioning and full bath. If you visit during the summer, don't forget that Arizona doesn't observe Daylight Savings Time.

Best websites:

Standin' on a Corner Park's official website [new window]
Grand Canyon National Park [new window]
Historic Route 66 Association of Arizona [new window]